LVT · Preparation

How a floor should be prepared for LVT (and why it is on your quote)

LVT is only 2 to 6mm thick. Every ridge, screw head and dip in the floor beneath will show through it within weeks. Preparation is not an extra. It is the job. Here is exactly what we do and why.

The short version

  • LVT needs a subfloor that is flat (within 3mm over 2 metres), dry, sound and clean. No product skips this.
  • Floorboards or chipboard: screwed down, overlaid with 6mm flooring-grade plywood fixed at close centres, joints feathered smooth.
  • Concrete, screed or asphalt: moisture tested, primed, then a smoothing compound poured and trowelled flat. A surface damp-proof membrane if the test says so.
  • The right adhesive for the room: standard pressure-sensitive for most rooms, high-temperature near bifolds, glazing and underfloor heating.
  • Planks acclimatise in the room before fitting. Rushing this causes gaps.
  • If a quote has no preparation on it and you have floorboards or an old concrete floor, ask why.

The most common reason an LVT floor fails is not the product. It is what happened, or did not happen, underneath it before the first plank went down. We have been asked to put right too many floors in Bolton that were fitted straight onto floorboards with a tube of grab adhesive. This guide is what proper preparation looks like, so you can judge any quote you are given.

What "flat" actually means

Every LVT manufacturer specifies the same tolerance, taken from the British Standard for resilient floor coverings (BS 8203): no more than 3mm deviation under a 2 metre straight edge. That is a very flat floor. Old floorboards cup and dip by far more than that between joists. Screed often has a trowel ridge or a hump by the door. We put a 2m straight edge on every floor during the home visit, and we tell you what we find.

Timber subfloors: floorboards and chipboard

This is most of Bolton. Victorian and Edwardian terraces in Halliwell, Deane, Great Lever and Tonge Moor, and the 1930s semis in Heaton, Smithills and Harwood, nearly all have suspended timber ground floors. New builds have chipboard upstairs.

What we do

  1. Secure the boards. Any loose or creaking boards are screwed down to the joists. Rotten or badly damaged boards are replaced. Proud nail heads are punched below the surface.
  2. Check ventilation and damp. A suspended floor needs airflow underneath. Blocked air bricks lead to damp boards and, eventually, a failed floor. We flag anything we see.
  3. Overlay with plywood. We fix 6mm flooring-grade plywood over the boards, staggered like brickwork so the ply joints never line up with the board joints. It is screwed or stapled at close centres across the whole sheet, not just the edges, so it cannot lift or drum. On a very uneven floor we may use thicker ply or level first.
  4. Feather the joints. Every ply joint and screw head is skimmed with a fine feather-finish compound and sanded flush, so nothing telegraphs through the LVT.
  5. Vacuum to a clean, dust-free surface. Adhesive does not bond to dust. We extract as we go, which is also why our customers' houses stay clean.

Why not just glue to the boards?

Floorboards move with the seasons, they have gaps, and their surface is uneven. Adhesive cannot hold a thin plank flat across a moving gap, and within months the board lines show as ridges in your new floor. Plywood turns a hundred moving boards into one stable sheet.

Concrete, screed and asphalt subfloors

Ground floors in 1950s to 1980s houses on estates around Breightmet, Johnson Fold, Horwich and Westhoughton, plus almost every extension and new build, are solid. The job here is different.

Moisture testing first

Concrete and screed hold water for a long time, and a new screed can take months to dry. LVT and its adhesive are not breathable, so any moisture rising from below collects under the floor and lifts it. Before any solid floor gets LVT we test it with a hygrometer. The British Standard limit is 75% relative humidity. Below that, we proceed. Above it, we apply a surface damp-proof membrane (an epoxy coating such as F. Ball Stopgap F77) and only then continue. New extensions in particular are often still too wet when the kitchen is being fitted; the test tells us rather than guessing.

Priming and smoothing compound

The floor is cleaned back to a sound surface and primed (the primer stops the compound drying too fast and helps it bond), then a smoothing compound is poured and trowelled to give a flat, hard, smooth base. We use professional products such as F. Ball Stopgap 1200 Pro or 300 HD, or the Ardex equivalents, at a minimum of 3mm. Asphalt floors, which are common in older council-built houses around Bolton, need a compound that is compatible with asphalt; the wrong one will not bond.

Existing tiles

Sound, well-bonded ceramic or quarry tiles can be kept, degreased, primed and smoothed over. Loose or hollow tiles come up first. We check every tile with a tap test.

Choosing the adhesive

Dryback LVT is laid into a pressure-sensitive adhesive. Which one matters:

  • Standard pressure-sensitive (for example F. Ball Styccobond F46): living rooms, bedrooms, hallways with normal temperatures.
  • High-temperature (F. Ball Styccobond F48 Plus, or the F49 Hybrid which does both jobs): rooms with bifolds, large south-facing glazing, conservatories and underfloor heating, where the floor can get hot enough for a standard adhesive to soften and let the planks creep.
  • Underfloor heating: the adhesive must be rated for it, the heating must be commissioned and run, then turned down 48 hours before fitting, and the surface must never exceed 27°C afterwards.

Acclimatisation

LVT expands and contracts with temperature. The boxes are opened and the planks left flat in the room for at least 24 hours (longer in winter, or if they came from a cold van or warehouse) at normal living temperature, usually 18 to 27°C, with the subfloor at the same temperature. Fitting cold planks into a warm house is the classic cause of gaps appearing a week later. We plan deliveries so this happens properly.

Door thresholds, skirting and edges

Preparation includes thinking about the edges. We check that doors will clear the new height (ply plus LVT adds a few millimetres on timber floors), plane them if needed, fit the right door bar between LVT and the neighbouring carpet, and either remove and refit skirting for the cleanest finish or fit a matching scotia. We tell you which we are planning at quote stage.

How to read your quote

A proper LVT quote for a Bolton house will usually list some or all of: uplift and disposal of the old floor, plywood overlay, feather finish, moisture test, primer and smoothing compound (or DPM if required), adhesive, the LVT itself with a waste allowance, door bars or scotia, and fitting. If a quote for a floorboarded room has none of this, the fitter is either planning to lay straight onto the boards or has not looked. Either way, ask.

Why we are strict about this

Because the guarantee on your floor depends on it. Every manufacturer's warranty is conditional on the subfloor meeting their specification. We photograph the preparation on every job so you have the record. And because a floor we fit is a floor we will be judged on for the next fifteen years.

Based in Bolton? We fit LVT, carpet, vinyl and laminate across Bolton, Horwich, Westhoughton, Egerton, Bromley Cross, Harwood, Breightmet, Blackrod and Lostock. See our Bolton flooring page or book a free home visit.

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Subfloor preparation — your questions

What to expect, and what to question on any quote.

Do you really need plywood before LVT on floorboards?

Yes. Floorboards move, cup and have gaps, and a 2mm plank cannot bridge them. A 6mm flooring-grade plywood overlay, fixed at close centres and feathered at the joints, turns the boards into one flat, stable sheet. Without it the board lines show through within months and the guarantee is void.

Why is there screed or smoothing compound on my quote for a concrete floor?

Concrete and screed are rarely flat to the 3mm-over-2m tolerance that LVT needs, and the surface is often dusty or pitted. A primed smoothing compound gives a hard, flat, clean base the adhesive can bond to properly. It is normal on almost every solid floor we fit.

What is a DPM and will I need one?

A damp-proof membrane. For LVT it is usually a liquid epoxy coating applied to a concrete floor that tests above 75% relative humidity, so that moisture cannot rise under the floor and lift it. We only specify it when the moisture test says it is needed, and we show you the reading.

Can you lay LVT over existing tiles?

Yes, if the tiles are sound and well bonded. We tap-test them, remove any loose ones, degrease, prime and smooth over with a compound so the grout lines cannot show through. It saves the mess and cost of taking the tiles up.

How long does the preparation take?

Typically a day for an average room: ply and feather on timber, or prime and pour on concrete, with the compound curing overnight. The LVT is then fitted the following day. We give you the full timescale with the quote.

Can LVT go on underfloor heating?

Yes, glue-down LVT is one of the best floors for it. The system must be commissioned and run before fitting, turned down for 48 hours before we start, and the adhesive must be rated for underfloor heating. The surface should never exceed 27 degrees C once the floor is down.

Is the preparation messy?

It does not have to be. We use dust extraction on sanding and cutting, protect the rest of the house and clean the room before we leave. Dust-free, tidy fitting is what Tred is known for across Bolton.

Want a straight answer for your own floor?

Book a free home visit in Bolton. We bring samples, check your subfloor properly and give you a clear, itemised supply-and-fit quote — no showroom, no pressure.

  • Free home sample visit
  • Subfloor checked before we quote
  • Clear supply and fit pricing
  • Dust-free, clean fitting

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